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JavaScript is disabled. For a better experience, please enable JavaScript in your browser before proceeding. Thread starter Shank Start date Oct 24, Shank Moderator Staff member. Joined Jan 31, Messages 1, Likes 2, Portables 6. Before you gut your console, please post the Revision, Serial Number, and Color of the console here. You can check the revision without disassembling the console using method 2 in this guide. We need as many entries as we can get, so please record every console you can.
Now you can submit your serial numbers through a google form! If you have a large number of serial numbers, DM cheese and he will add them so you don't have to go through the form for every single board. Spoiler: Current Identification Method Back in the ModRetro days, I was able to check the date codes and discover that Nintendo switched over to using 65nm GPUs and 4 Layer boards shortly before releasing the Wii in colors other than white. This also happened before Nintendo released the newer version of the Wii without Gamecube ports.
This is how we know for a fact that any non white wii with gamecube controller ports and any wii without gamecube controller ports including white ones will have a 4 layer board. This information has been invaluable for portablizers, and is currently the only sure-fire way to track down an efficient board without removing the battery tray. White Wii's with Gamecube controllers are by far the most common variant, but they are also the only wii shell that doesn't guarantee a die shrunk 4 layer board.
They CAN have a 4 layer board, but are not guaranteed. Spoiler: The goal There are so many 4 layer boards hiding in white wiis waiting to be cut up. I want to see if we as a community can find a trend between serial number and revision. The larger sample size we have, the more accurate of a theory we can come up with. Next time you open up your next wii, write down the revision code and serial number, and post it here. Ill add it to the spreadsheet, credit you, and maybe one day we can find a trend.
Last edited by a moderator: Jul 8, Joined Feb 25, Messages 1, Likes 2, Matthew Formally known as Chaos. Thanks for the contributions so far. Joined Sep 29, Messages 53 Likes Madmorda Painting Queen. No biggy, but I don't see mine in the list, posted before madmorda's. Did I leave out any data needed? Please try to input the full serial number, ranges from 6 characters on the earliest models to 10 on the latest.
On some boards the serial is split into two lines with the last two letters being on the second line. The serial will be masked to preserve privacy, the three last characters will be changed to XXX.
DVD controller IC-chip. The DVD drive chip is the essential part to identify the version of the console. There are three IC-chips and the DVD chip ontroller is the middle-sized one, the smaller one of the two large chips. It's possible to re-connect the points on the chip to the traces but it requires attention to detail and some solder skills.
DVD chip: missing third solderpad. Some of the later revisions of the D2B chip had the third solderpad removed. This pad was a required to complete a standard installation of a first generation modchip e.
An easy workaround was to solder a wire directly from the modchip to the drive chip pins instead. Later revision of the D2C chip had some changes made to it and required a modchip update in order to work with existing D2C compatibel drive chips. The easiest way to identify the new D2C controller is to look for a new metal clip on top of the DVD unit near the spinning cog.
These chips go under the D2C2 a. D2C v2 abbreviation. This metal clip will also be present on all newer drives, aka D2E, D3, etc. This looks like a preventative measure against installation of modchips, as it covers all the original and alternative installation points.
A way to remove the glue was to heat it up to C and peel it off. ModFreakz made a video of the glue removal. None of the current drive-keys would work.
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